Pacific Heights

Between snowcapped mountains and the ocean shore, Vancouver has always been Canada's beauty queen. But the city isn't relying on its looks alone. With trailblazing chefs, designers and artists -- not to mention a thriving film scene -- it's become the hottest spot north of the border.

12 hours in Vancouver

10 A.M. Start with an almond croissant and espresso at 49th Parallel Coffee Roasters. 2152 West Fourth Avenue; (604) 420-4901.

11 A.M. Shop Fourth Avenue in Kitsilano for fashion-forward clothes (don't miss Gravity Pope Tailored Goods at No. 2203).

12 P.M. Study the superb First Nations totem poles at the Museum of Anthropology. 6393 NW Marine Drive; (604) 822-5087.

1:30 P.M. Head to the docks near Granville Island for lunch at the divey but cultish Go Fish. 1505 West First Avenue; (604 )730-5039.

2:30 P.M. Visit Artisan Sake Maker, Canada's only artisanal sake producer, on Granville Island. 1339 Railspur Alley; (604) 685-7253.

4 P.M. Explore False Creek by kayak or boat from the Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Center. 1668 Duranleau Street; (604) 689-7575.

7:30 P.M. Sidle up to the sushi bar at Blue Water Café in Yaletown. 1095 Hamilton Street; (604) 688-8078; entrees $31 to $45.

10 P.M.Sip old-school cocktails and rub shoulders with the beautiful people at George. 1137 Hamilton Street; (604) 628-5555.